Vallée de Mai
A lovely woman named Jessie was our tour guide through the 19.5 acres of forest at Vallée de Mai National Park, a natural cathedral of cool shade composed of layers of massive palm fronds set high over the ground on thick trunks resembling some kind of alien architecture. An occasional gust of wind would move the roof of the forest, revealing glimpses of the blue sky amid a loud, papery clatter of fronds and stalks rubbing and knocking against each other. There is virtually no underbrush due to palm fronds littering the forest floor. In spite of the humidity, our guide said that the fallen fronds were still very susceptible to fire.




Seychelles is the only place in the world where the Coco de Mer grows. Among the eleven botanical records that it holds, it produces the largest wild fruit in the world. Occasional signs along the path were placed near trees that had ripe fruit – which takes 7 years – warning visitors to beware of getting conked in the head by falling fruits weighing as much as 75 pounds.

The catkin of the male tree and the seed of the fruit produced by the female tree are vividly erotic in their appearance, at least to humans (the trees could not be reached for comment). The Seychellois, who seem quite modest otherwise, have completely embraced the imagery of the Coco de Mer, and it is proudly displayed throughout the islands, especially the seed of the fruit.

Male catkin on the left, female fruit seed on the right